BOGOTA...AGAIN

BOGOTA...one more time

 

I've visited the city several times. Every time I find it better.  This time we had some unusual deep blue skies days.

 

We stayed at the W Hotel for business reasons. I was looking forward to it. I had stayed near the Zona Rosa before. The W is at the doors of Usaquén, a place I had gone to before just for dinner. This time I enjoyed the place during the day, and now I have the doubt whether I prefer to stay there.

 

What I recommend this time:

 

EAT

 

We had dinner at LA MAR Bogotá, in Usaquén, just blocks from the hotel. It’s very nice to be able to walk there and back, adding the fact that the streets have a lot of atmosphere. The truth is that Cevicheria La Mar doesn't lose its seal here. I've been to La Mar in Lima, in Santiago and in Miami and I've always eaten very well.  The menu tempts you in such a way that you always eat too much and together with the pisco sour, they made me swear that night not to eat again for days...but...it didn't happen.

The morning after, even though I skipped breakfast, we did have lunch. We went, also in Usaquén, to a little French bistro called: La PROVENCE DE ANDREI once again everything was delicious. Varied menu and every dish that was served to us, was perfectly French. At the end they gave us some mini baguettes to take home.

The only thing I didn't like was a young tenor who had a voice suited for the Scala at Milan but too much for this little space. It prevented us from talking. He sang well-known operas and very well indeed, but to me that show honestly seemed like zero French.

 

This time I really couldn't eat again, so I went down to the very nice bar of the hotel, had a glass of wine and skipped dinner, so I woke up with an appetite and ran to ABASTO in Usaquén too, a place recommended by a friend especially for its breakfasts, although they serve lunch and dinner, the first meal seems to be their specialty. From broths, arepas and carimañolas, to all kind of eggs in all possible presentations to oatmeal pancakes, granola and fresh fruit. The thing is that breakfast is my favorite meal. I give it 5 stars.

 

And if you're in the Zona Rosa or the Zona T as it's also called and you're hungry, you can stop by any of the places that are open all day and have a drink and a snack. We wanted to try the ‘siete pieles’ fresh cheese and we did it at PRAVDA with a beer. We didn't want to have lunch because we had reservations for a special dinner.

 

9 pm…opening time for the second seating at LEO COCINA Y CAVA. We had reserved the 13  dishes tasting menu (over 16 dishes tasting menu). We came here on the recommendation of my great friend Piaspia Egañez @piaspia_la_que_cocina_descalza.

What can I say? Go...try it! It's something different, sublime. Each one of the 13 dishes was new for us. The presentation, the description of the dishes and of course the taste of each one. The ingredients are all Colombian: fish, herbs, flowers, spices, sweets and chocolates.  Chef Leo Espinosa manages to combine them in such a way that makes this meal worthy of all the awards it has received.

I didn't like the background music.

The restaurant is a little expensive.

 

Other places I like:

 

Andres Carne de Res, if you've been there, take the trip to Chia, but there's also a smaller version in the Zona Rosa.

If you haven't been to the Catedral de Sal, (it's unexpectedly surprising), I suggest you go before lunch or dinner and then on the way back, stop to eat at Andrés.

 

Please do take note of this List of restaurants in Bogotá. Promise you’ll find it really useful These are all posh restaurants full of nice looking local people.

 

Bogotá restaurants

K.O. in Parque de la 93 next to Le pain Quotidien

La Bagatelle for breakfast

Cusco

Primi on Carrera 13 #85-85

Pajares Salinas Spanish food Carrera 10 #96-8

 

 

On Carrera 13 and Calle 85 there are several good restaurants:

-Osaka

-Di Lucca

-Nemo at the Four Seasons  by the popular Chef, Harry Sasson (we also went to Harry Sasson's restaurant that bears name but I didn't love it. The house where it is located is beautiful, though)

-La Brasserie

-Central cevicheria

 

Salvaje at the Bioxury Hotel. Calle 83 # 9 – 48 Great!

 

On Calle 90  and Carrera 11 there is kind of a plaza that belongs to EK Hotel  surrounded by  4 restaurants:

We loved Cacio e Pepe Italian fare.  And,

Osaki

 

The Zona G  (G stands for gourmet). Is a developing area of eating joints. We ate at a good Greek place called Lorenzo the Greek. A small place with a relaxed atmosphere.

El Cielo, is close by.

 

We ate super well in Bogotá!!

WHAT ELSE TO DO

 

It may look like Bogotá was all about eating, but it wasn't. The reality is that I went to work and didn't have much free time. I went downtown because I love it, I had already been to Bogota, so the Museo del Oro which is fascinating, I didn't visit it this time, but I went to the Bolivar Square, and to the Mambo, the Modern Art Museum of Bogota. It is no more than ok but anyway it’s worth a visit.

The streets of the center are very picturesque and not to be missed. The Iglesia del Carmen is different and since I am a devotee, I visited it. It's on Carrera 7 which is pedestrianized. It is worth the walk through the center which is called La Candelaria.

 

It is also nice to go up to Montserrate at 3300 mts, by funicular or cable car and if you are lucky enough to have a day like the ones we had, you will enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the city.

You can also go up on foot. I'd like to do it sometime. They say it's not difficult and you can get up there in 40 minutes.

 

We were planning on going to Valle de Leyva, a small colonial town about 2 hours by car that has awakened my interest. Didn’t have enough time this trip.

 

By the way, keep in mind the “Pico y Plata”, the local government plan to control traffic is by forbidding cars from going out on certain days of the week depending on the last number of their license plate. And it works, but fines are very high if you don’t comply.

The most complicated part  is that the law affects rental cars too. Keep an eye out!

 

A downfall:

Bogotá is at a very high altitude (over 8,000 feet above sea level) and some people get sick. I did. I felt my heart pounding all day long. I certainly recommend to take some time to adapt. Do not do strenuous exercise nor drink alcohol on arrival. I would say to wait a day or two.  

 

BOGOTA…otra vez

 

He visitado la ciudad varias veces. Cada día la encuentro mejor, quizás ayudó que está vez tuvimos unos días con unos cielos azul intenso inusuales para Bogotá.

 

Nos quedamos en el Hotel W por razones de trabajo. Estaba a la expectativa. Antes me había quedado cerca de la Zona Rosa. El W queda a las puertas de Usaquén, un lugar al que antes había ido solo para cenar. Esta vez disfruté el lugar de día, y ahora tengo la duda de si prefiero alojarme por ahí.

 

Qué les recomiendo ésta vez:

 

COMER

 

Comimos en LA MAR de Bogotá, en Usaquén, a solo cuadras del hotel. Muy agradable poder ir y volver caminando, además de que las calles tiene mucho ambiente. La verdad que Cebicheria La Mar no pierde su sello. He estado en Lima, en Santiago y en Miami y siempre he comido muy bien, pero el menú tienta de tal manera que siempre se come de más y, unido a los pisco sour, hicieron que esa noche jurara no volver a comer en días…pero…no pasa.

 

Aún cuando me salté el desayuno, almorzamos. Fuimos, también en Usaquén, a una bistrocito francés que se llama: La PROVENCE DE ANDREI vez más todo delicioso. Menú variado y cada plato que nos sirvieron, estuvo perfectamente francés. Al final nos regalaron unas mini baguette para llevarnos a casa.

Lo único que no me gustó fue un joven tenor que tenía una voz propia de la Scala de Milán pero que se comía este pequeño espacio e impedía que pudiéramos conversar. Cantó piezas de operas conocidas y la verdad que muy bien, pero a mi sinceramente ese show me pareció cero francés.

 

No pude comer, así que bajé al muy agradable bar del hotel y me tomé una copa de vino, así que amanecí con apetito para escapar a ABASTO una vez más en Usaquén, un lugar recomendado por una amiga especialmente por sus desayunos, aunque sirven almuerzos y cenas, la primera comida pareciera ser su especialidad. Desde caldos, arepas y carimañolas, pasando por todo tipo de huevos en todas sus posibles presentaciones hasta panquecas de avena , granola y frutas frescas. Lo que pasa es que el desayuno es mi comida favorita. Le doy 5 estrellas.

 

 

Y si estás en la Zona Rosa o la Zona T como también la llaman y te llama el hambre, puedes parar en cualquiera de los lugares que abren todo el día y te tomas un trago y picas algo. Nosotros queríamos probar el queso siete cueros y lo hicimos en PRAVDA acompañado de una cerveza. No quisimos almorzar porque teníamos reservación para comer y en vista de que nos enfrentaríamos a un menú de degustación, decidimos hacer esperar al apetito.

 

Y llegaron las 9 pm, hora del segundo turno de comida y que habíamos reservado para disfrutar del menú de 13 o 16 pasos de LEO COCINA Y CAVA. Ahí estamos en la puerta, a la expectativa pero sabiendo que sería bueno porque esta recomendación venía de mi gran amiga Piaspia Egañez  @piaspia_la_que_cocina_descalza.

Qué les puedo decir? Vayan…prueben!! Es algo diferente, sublime. Cada uno de los 13 platos fueron novedosos, la presentación, la descripción de los platos y por supuesto el sabor de cada uno. Los ingredientes son todos colombianos: pescados, hierbas, flores, picantes, dulces y chocolates.  La Chef Leo Espinosa logra combinarlos de tal manera que hace que esta comida sea merecedora de todos los premios que ha recibido.

No me gustó la selección de música de fondo y me pareció costoso…

5 estrellas sin lugar a dudas.

 

Otros lugares que me gustan:

 

Andrés Carne de Res, si nos has ido, tienes que conocerlo y sin duda el de Chía es el que tienes que escoger, pero también hay una versión más céntrica en la Zona Rosa.

Si no has ido a la Catedral de Sal, te sugiero que vayas primero (es inesperadamente sorprendente), y después de regreso paras a comer en Andrés.

 

 

 

 

QUE HACER

 

Pareciera que todo fue comer, pero no. La realidad es que fui de trabajo y no tuve mucho tiempo libre. Fui al centro porque me encanta, ya había estado en Bogotá, así que el Museo del Oro que es fascinante, no lo visité esta vez, pero fui ala plaza de Bolivar, y al Mambo, el Museo de Arte Moderno de Bogotá. No me sorprendió nada, pero está ahí y vale la pena darse una vuelta.

Las calles del centro son muy pintorescas y no tienen desperdicio. La Iglesia del Carmen es diferente y como soy devota, la visité. Está sobre la Carrera 7 que es peatonal. Vale la pena el paseo por el centro que se llama La Candelaria.

 

También es lindo subir a Montserrate a 3300 mts, por funicular o por teleférico y si te toca en suerte un día como los que nos tocaron a nosotros, disfrutarás de una vista panorámica espectacular de la ciudad.

También puedes subir caminando. Me gustará hacerlo alguna vez. Dicen que no es difícil y que puedes subir en 40 minutos.

 

I have prepared for my next visit to leave the city and go to Valle de Leyva, a small colonial town about 2 hours by car that has awakened my interest.

By the way, keep in mind the Pico y Plata. There it works, the fines are very high, and the cars stop several times a week, and the most complicated thing for the tourist, is that it affects the rental cars. Keep an eye out!

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My name is Ana Bazo. I'm traveler and a tourist. Planning a trip seduces me. I love visiting far away solitary places. During my travels I write and take pictures... So, one day I put all that  together and The Undercover Pilot was born.

 

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